From couch to Canyon
With a little effort, you can get in shape for a Grand hike

Apr. 21, 2003 12:00 AM

So, you want to hike the Grand Canyon.

It's only natural.

"For many people, their first reaction when they see the Grand Canyon, they want to hike down into it," says Mallory Smith, spokeswoman for Grand Canyon National Park. "Once you drop below the rim, it's a whole different world."

For some, a hike into the Canyon is a spiritual experience. For others, it's a personal quest, like running a marathon or climbing Mount Everest.

But it's no walk in the park.

"Don't underestimate the power of the Canyon," Smith says. "It's deep, it's steep, and, for much of the year, it's hot. Add to that the elevation, and you've got a prescription for a potential problem."

So before you make your hiking plans, take a good, hard look in the mirror. If your belly laps over your belt and the only exercise you've had in years is hiking to the refrigerator and lifting cold beverages to your lips, you're not ready for a Grand Canyon hike.

But here's the good news: If you can train two or three times a week, you can get in shape to hike the Canyon fairly quickly, says Ed Tompkins, an outdoorsman and former guide who works at the Arizona Hiking Shack in Phoenix and has hiked hundreds of miles in the Canyon.

And Phoenix is a great place to train, with hundreds of miles of mountain trails in city and county parks.

So, assuming you're in decent shape and have no serious medical problems, here's a program to get you off the couch and ready to hike the Canyon in early fall.

Obligatory disclaimer: Check with your physician before undertaking any strenuous exercise program.

The route

We'll follow the classic introduction to Grand Canyon hiking - a trek down the South Rim's South Kaibab Trail, two nights at the Bright Angel campground near Phantom Ranch and a hike back up to the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail.

The shorter, steeper South Kaibab Trail gives spectacular views on your way down, and the Bright Angel Trail has several water sources and shady places to rest.

By spending two nights at Bright Angel Campground, you have a full day to explore and enjoy the sensation of being a mile below the rim.

Camping

The Bright Angel Campground lies along Bright Angel Creek, which flows into the Colorado River. It has 32 campsites, each with a picnic table, food-storage bins and pack racks. There are bathrooms and drinking water but no showers.

Reservations

Permits are required for any stay in the Grand Canyon. You may apply for a spot at Bright Angel Campground up to four months in advance. So if you want to hike in September, apply on or after May 1. For an October trip, apply on or after June 1.

There is a $10 application fee, along with a charge of $5 per person per night, payable by check or credit card.

(To stay at adjacent Phantom Ranch, which has dorms and cabins, you can apply up to 23 months in advance.)

Conditioning

Between the Phoenix Mountains Preserve and the county parks around the Valley, Grand Canyon hikers have hundreds of miles of trails on which to train.

"You've got to have dedication and consistency to your training," says Ken Phillips, chief of emergency services at the Grand Canyon. "Just like when you're going to run a 10k or a marathon, you don't go out two or three times to get ready. It requires prolonged, consistent training."

You may have heard that if you want to hike the Canyon, you need to be able to hike Squaw Peak (or Camelback Mountain) four times in a row while wearing a pack.

"I've heard that," Tompkins says, "but, personally, I don't put much stock in it. . . . If you can do Squaw Peak once or twice at a pretty good clip without being terribly out of breath, you'll be fine for the Canyon."

By midsummer, keeping to the three-hike-a-week regimen, start mixing short, steep outings with longer ones, such as the trek across South Mountain, once a week or so, Tompkins says.

As you progress, start hiking with the backpack you plan to use in the Canyon, gradually adding weight and increasing your distance until you can hike 10 miles with the weight you plan to carry into the Canyon.

"You don't want to be just barely accomplishing it," Phillips says. "You need to attain a level of fitness so you can hike down and back up without suffering. The idea is to enjoy it."

As with any exercise or running program, many people find it easier to stick with it if they have a partner.

Gear

In addition to a backpack, tent and sleeping bag, you'll want sturdy boots or trail shoes to protect your ankles along rugged Canyon trails.

Buy your boots at least a month before your hike and start breaking them in.

"Wear them around the house or to work before taking them out on the trail," Tompkins says. "Then train in them."

Minimize the weight you'll carry by cutting down on clothing and cooking gear. The less weight, the more enjoyable experience.

And that's what it's all about.

Reach the reporter at (602) 444-4414.